There is something undeniably heartwarming about bringing a handmade friend to life, especially one as charming as Gloria the Hippo. This amigurumi pattern captures the essence of a cozy, festive season, perfect for gifting during the holidays or adding a touch of whimsy to a nursery. Whether you are a seasoned crocheter looking for a quick project or a beginner eager to try your hand at color changes and shaping, this pattern offers a delightful journey into the world of amigurumi. With its distinctive red dress and soft, plush features, Gloria is ready to become the star of your holiday decor or a cherished companion for a little one.
Seasonal Styling Ideas
While Gloria comes dressed for Christmas in her festive red and black ensemble, her versatility allows for year-round appeal. The dress is designed to be removable, meaning you can easily swap her holiday look for a summer outfit or keep her in her natural grey state for a minimalist nursery aesthetic. The super bulky yarn used for her body gives her a chunky, cuddly texture that feels inviting to the touch, making her an ideal photo prop for holiday cards or a comforting bedtime buddy. You can even create a “hippo couple” by making a second hippo without a dress to display alongside her, creating a sweet seasonal vignette on a mantel or shelf.
Project Overview
Gloria the Hippo is a charming amigurumi project that combines basic shaping techniques with a bit of color work to create a detailed face. The pattern includes instructions for the hippo itself and a separate, removable dress. The construction involves working the head, body, and limbs in the round, with specific attention to stuffing and shaping to achieve Gloria’s characteristic hips and belly. The dress is worked flat and then assembled, allowing for easy dressing and undressing of the toy.
Materials
For the Hippo
- Yarn: Himalaya Dolphin Baby (Super Bulky 6)
- Grey (80367) – Main body color (approx. 71 g)
- Pink (80319) – Secondary color for the muzzle
- Hook: 4 mm crochet hook
- Eyes: 18 mm safety eyes
- Notions: Yarn needle, scissors, hollow fiber (polyfil) stuffing
- Details: Acrylic or cotton yarn for face/eye details
For the Dress
- Yarn: Himalaya Dolphin Baby (Super Bulky 6)
- Red (80318)
- Black (80311)
- Yarn: Wolans Fox Yarn (109 yds / 100g) – White (110-01)
- Hook: 4 mm crochet hook
Gauge and Finished Size
Specific gauge measurements and finished size dimensions are not provided in the source pattern. However, the pattern utilizes Super Bulky 6 weight yarn and a 4 mm hook, which typically results in a quick-work, plush toy. Ensure your tension is consistent, particularly when working the half double crochets on the snout, to avoid holes.
Abbreviations
US Terms are used throughout the pattern.
- MR – Magic Ring
- ch – Chain
- slst – Slip Stitch
- sc – Single Crochet
- dec – Decrease (2 sc together)
- inc – Increase (2 sc in same st)
- dc – Double Crochet
- BLO – Back Loop Only
- hdc – Half Double Crochet
- hdc-inc – Half Double Crochet Increase (2 hdc in one st)
- 3hdc-inc – (3 hdc in one st)
- BBL – Bobble Stitch (4 double crochet bobble stitch)
- cc – Color Change
- FO – Fasten Off
- FLO – Front Loop Only
Pattern Notes
- Color Work: In the head pattern (R3-R13), you will be changing colors. The grey yarn is used for the main head structure, while the pink yarn is used for the muzzle and snout details.
- Nostrils: The nostrils are created using Bobble Stitches (BBL). Depending on your tension, these may not line up perfectly; adjust placement as needed.
- Snout Shaping: Half double crochets (hdc) are used to shape the snout. Make these stitches tight to prevent gaps.
- Eye Placement: Safety eyes are placed between R8 and R9, approximately 5-6 stitches apart. If using eyes 16 mm or smaller, place them 4 stitches apart.
- Body Marker: A contrasting thread marker is used to keep the center of the back aligned while working the body.
- Stuffing: Stuff the body as you go. Pay special attention to the hips and tummy; insufficient stuffing will cause the hippo to lose its characteristic shape.
Pattern Instructions
Head
Start with Grey.
R1: ch 6, from the 2nd ch from the hook: 4 sc, 4 sc in the last ch, 3 sc, 3 sc in the last ch (14)
R2: inc, 3 sc, 4 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc (22)
R3-R13: Color changing rounds. Grey text = Grey yarn, Pink text = Pink yarn.
R3: sc, inc, 4sc, inc, sc, inc, (sc,inc)*2, 3 sc, (sc,inc)*2, 2sc, cc to pink and sc in the same st (30)
R4: 11 sc, 18 sc, sc (30)
R5: 11 sc, 5 sc, BBL, 6 sc, BBL, 5 sc, sc (30) | 16 sc, BBL, 6sc, BBL, 6 sc (0) (See reference image for nostril placement)
R6: 11 sc, sc, dec, 13 sc, dec, sc (28)
R7: 11 sc, 4 sc, (hdc, hdc-inc)*4, hdc, 3 sc, sc (32)
R8: sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, sc, sc, dec, 2 sc, hdc, hdc-inc, 6 hdc, hdc-inc, hdc, 4 sc, dec (30), cc to pink.
Note: Hdc should be in the middle of the snout. Make hdc’s very tight so there are no holes.
R9: 9 sc, 5 sc, hdc, hdc-inc, 7 hdc, hdc-inc, hdc, 5 sc (32)
R10: 9 sc, 8 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 8 sc (34)
R11: 9 sc, 25 sc (34)
Place eyes between R8 and R9, about 5-6 sts apart. (4 sts apart if using 16mm or smaller eyes).
R12: 9 sc, 11 sc, inc, sc, inc, 11 sc (36), cut the pink.
R13-14: 36 sc around (2 rounds)
R15: (4sc,dec)*6 (30)
R16: (3sc,dec)*6 (24)
Start to stuff. Thoroughly stuff the forehead and muzzle.
R17: (2sc,dec)*6 (18)
R18: (sc,dec)*6 (12)
R19: 6 dec (6). Cut the yarn, close the hole.
Lip
Start with Pink.
R1: ch 4, from the 2nd ch from the hook: inc, sc, 4 sc in the last ch, sc, inc (10)
R2: inc, 3 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc, inc (14)
R3: 5 sc, slst, cut the yarn, FO, leaving a tail for sewing.
Sew the lip onto the head after shaping the face. Place the lip between R8 and R10, and use a needle to sew from the 1st point to the 2nd.
Ears (x2)
R1: 5 sc in a MR
R2: 2 inc, hdc-inc, 2 inc (10)
R3: 4 sc, 2 hdc, 4 sc (10)
Cut the yarn, FO, leaving a tail for sewing.
Place the ears between R12 & R13, 10 stitches between them.
Arms (x2)
R1: 5 sc in a MR
R2: 5 inc (10)
R3-12: 10 sc around (10 rounds)
Stuff it lightly until R8. Fold in half and crochet 5 sc through both sides.
Legs (x2)
R1: 8 sc in a MR (8)
R2: (sc,inc)x4 (12)
R3-6: 12 sc around (4 rounds)
R7: (2sc,inc)*4 (16)
FO after the 1st leg, but do not FO after the 2nd leg. You will be connecting them and counting on to the body.
Body
2 ch after finishing the 2nd leg. Attach legs by 16 sc around the 1st leg, 2 sc into the chs, 16 sc on the 2nd leg and sc on the ch. Put a marker to mark the center (using contrasting thread). Continue with the body; row numbering starts again.
R1: sc on the ch, (2sc,inc)*5, 3 inc, (2sc,inc)*4, sc, 3 inc (50)
R2: 2 inc, 20 sc, (inc,sc)*2, 24 sc (54)
R3: 25 sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 25 sc (56)
R4: 56 sc around (56)
The increases must fall on the increases of the 2nd row; adjust if necessary. Keep your eye on the marker and ensure it goes straight down the middle of the back. Adjust it by offsetting the stitch.
R5: 8sc, (sc,dec)*3, 19sc, (dec,sc)*3, 11 sc (50) (Start shaping hips)
R6: 8sc, (sc,dec)*3, 14sc, (dec,sc)*3, 10 sc (44)
R7: (5sc,dec)*2, 10 sc, (5sc,dec)*2, 6 sc (40)
Start stuffing. Stuff the body as you go. Pay special attention to the stuffing of the hips and tummy.
R8-9: 40 sc around (2 rounds)
R10: (6sc,dec)*5 (35)
R11: (5sc,dec)*5 (30)
R12: 30 sc around (30)
R13: (3sc,dec)*6 (24)
R14: 24 sc around (24)
In R15 we’ll be adding the arms. Offset the stitches if necessary to ensure that the arms are symmetrically positioned.
R15: 4 sc, 5 sc with arm, 6 sc, 5 sc with arm, 4 sc (24)
R16: (2sc,dec)*6 (18)
R17: (sc,dec)*6 (12), slst. Cut the yarn, leaving a tail for sewing.
Sew the head to the body.
Dress
Waistband: Start with Black.
R1: ch 50
R2: connect to the first chain with a sc (this counts as your first sc), 49 sc (50), cc to red.
R3: 50 sc around (50)
Next, you don’t need to count the stitches, just make sure not to skip any stitches to achieve the desired shape. Trust the process.
R4: ch 2, (FLO) (hdc-inc, 3 hdc-inc in the next st) repeat to the end of the round, slst, cc to white.
R5: hdc around, slst. Cut the yarn, FO, hide the ends.
Sleeves:
1. Mark the center ten stitches of the starting chain.
2. Take the red yarn and insert your hook into the green marked stitch on the right side, pull a loop through, ch 1 and start crocheting in that same stitch:
Row 1: 10 sc, ch 1, turn your work
Row 2-3: 10 sc (10), ch 1, turn (2 rows)
Row 4: dec, 6 sc, dec (8), ch 1, turn
Row 5: dec, 4 sc, dec (6), ch 1, turn
Row 6: slst, ch 1
3. Continue crocheting from the side: 3 slst, 2 sc, hdc in the waistband of the dress. Cut the yarn, FO, hide the ends.
4. Join the yarn in the last stitch of row 6 and make ch 12.
5. Connect to the waistband at the back by making a sc. Continue crocheting 10 sc.
6. Make ch 12 and connect to the front side by making a slst. Cut the yarn, FO, hide the ends.
Assembly
- Sew the lip onto the head between R8 and R10.
- Place the ears between R12 & R13, with 10 stitches between them.
- Stuff arms lightly until R8, fold in half, and crochet 5 sc through both sides.
- Connect legs to the body as described in the Body section.
- Sew the head to the body.
- Hide all remaining ends.
Tips
- Nostril Alignment: Depending on your tension, nostrils may not line up perfectly. Adjust placement to suit your preference.
- Snout Tightness: Ensure hdc stitches on the snout are tight to prevent holes.
- Eye Spacing: If using 16mm or smaller eyes, place them 4 stitches apart instead of 5-6.
- Body Increases: Ensure increases in later rows align with the increases made in Row 2 for a smooth shape.
- Back Center: Use your contrasting thread marker to ensure the back seam remains straight.
- Stuffing: Do not under-stuff the hips and tummy, or the hippo will lose its characteristic shape.
- Arm Symmetry: Offset stitches in R15 of the body if necessary to ensure arms are positioned symmetrically.
FAQs
Can I make Gloria without the dress?
Yes, the dress is completely separate and not sewn onto the hippo. You can make the hippo alone or create multiple hippos to share one dress.
What size safety eyes should I use?
The pattern recommends 18 mm safety eyes. If you use smaller eyes (16 mm or less), you should place them closer together (4 stitches apart).
Why are my nostrils not lining up?
This is often due to tension differences. The pattern notes that you can adjust the placement of the Bobble Stitches (BBL) to suit your work.
How do I ensure the arms are symmetrical?
In Row 15 of the body, you attach the arms. The pattern suggests offsetting stitches if necessary to ensure they are positioned symmetrically on the body.
Can I use a different yarn weight?
This pattern is written for Super Bulky 6 weight yarn (Himalaya Dolphin Baby) and a 4 mm hook. Using a different weight will change the finished size and gauge significantly.
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